September 11 is Also A Birthday – Ten Years Ago

A family birthday is usually an intimate event, especially as children get older and party hats and party themes give way to quiet family celebrations.

Ten years ago our youngest daughter Brittany had just started her freshman year at UVM and we planned to surprise her with a home cooked meal at her sister Kate’s apartment in Burlington, VT.  It was a Tuesday, a workday.  Michael and I had prepared Britt’s favorite foods over the weekend and our plan was to drive up the interstate and return early the next morning.  It would be almost three hours each way.  Tiring, but totally doable for our baby.

That morning at Green Street School in Brattleboro, I walked my fourth grade class to an early morning special.   After I dropped them off someone told me that a plane had crashed into the World Trade Center.  I went to the school library and watched clips of a plane hitting the first tower.  It was difficult to watch, imagining what it must have been like to be on the plane or in the building.   What a horrific accident.  After spending sometime with my colleagues, I returned to the classroom and prepared for the rest of the day.  On my way back, I ducked into the library to catch the latest update just in time to witness another plane crashing into the second tower.  It was clear to all that we were under attack. Our lives where changed in that moment.  Stunned, but maintaining an air of calm, I picked up my students and carried on.  I do not remember many details after that.  I think that sometime in the afternoon the principal made a measured public announcement about the events and that there was a moment of silence for those who lost their lives that day.  Our concern was always to make sure the children felt safe.  It was a particularly quiet dismissal.

Michael and I communicated throughout the day and grappled with the decision of whether to continue or abandon our planned celebration of Britt’s 19^th birthday.  In the end, we decided that we wanted to be together as a family and that an act of evil perpetrated on our country was not going to change our lives. Michael and I met at home and drove to Burlington listening to NPR.  I remember a sense of relief that our news was auditory and not visual.

When we arrived at Kate’s apartment her roommates, many who had ties to the NYC area, were still trying to connect with loved ones to make sure that everyone was okay.  The phone system was jammed but by early evening, I think all the girls felt comfortable that their immediate families were safe.

As birthday celebrations go, it was subdued.  The meal was shared but of course discussion centered on the day’s events.  Many details of the evening are unclear to me.  I think we may have brought a seasonal apple pie, a Wagner-Friel family tradition, or poppy seed cake. I’m not certain.  But what I will never forget and makes me emotional to this very day was the girls’ incredibly beautiful, somber, even patriotic rendition of “Happy Birthday.”   These young women had sung together for years in UVM’s a Capella group, The Cats’ Meow.  Singing was a tie that bound them together as family and I will be forever grateful to them for the memory.

Happy Birthday, Brittany.  May you have many, many more.

 

Our Kenyan Safari – Part I “The Maasai”

Sharon joined the Maasai woman's choir...but fortunately chose not to sing.

During the Eid celebrating the end of Ramadan we traveled to Kenya for an African safari.  Here is the first of several postings detailing our experience in Kenya.

Maasai men performing their jumps. They compete with other villages to see who can jump the highest.

The major portion of our safari was spent on the Maasai Mara in southwestern Kenya. This area of Kenya is the home of the Maasai tribe, thus the name of the savannah as well as the National Game Park where we spent one full day on the safari. We were told that “mara” means “dotted” in the Masai language, and refers to the savannah that is dotted by acacia trees.  The area is inhabited by the Maasai people, and meeting Maasai men and women, visiting a nearby village and getting to know the culture some was an incredibly interesting and enriching part of the trip.

The exterior of a typical Maasai village

The life of the Maasai could not be more different than that lived by Westerners. A typical village is a round enclosure, the fence of which is made of thorny acacia branches.  The fence provides protection from lions and other wild predators looking for an easy meal.  The Maasai are herders of cattle and goats, which are brought into the enclosure at night.  Inside the enclosure we visited are 6-10 huts for the two or three families that comprise the village.  Maasai are polygamists, and the married men move from hut to hut, visiting their various wives.  The cattle and goats are the source of all their wealth; the more cattle and goats the more wealthy one is in the culture.  These animals are also their major source of food.  A primary part of their diet is milk or a mixture of blood and milk.  They eat some meat and little to no vegetables. Aside from their cattle and goats, bright clothing and jewelry, a knife and dancing stick for the men, they essentially have no other possessions.

Inside the Maasai hut. The light comes from the camera's flash.

The Maasai homes, one of which we had the opportunity to enter, are made of sticks and dried dung.  There are no windows, and no chimney.  It took  quite some time for our eyes to adjust to the darkness, but once they did we were stunned at how small the space was.

A Maasai hut. No windows, no chimney! Made of sticks and dung

Part of the hut houses young goats and cows.  The people use  a very small common area with a tiny cooking space, and on either of that two sleeping berths.  That’s it! Incredibly small, incredibly dark, certainly thick with animal smells and cooking smoke.  This visit put our way of life in such a different perspective.  It was a powerful experience.

Sharon read a book to her students in Brattleboro  that describes the life of a young boy growing up Maasai.   He  has the opportunity to attend school in Kenya, and then college in the USA.  He now teaches in the states during the school year, and returns to his life as a Maasai during the summer.  Facing the Lionis a book worth reading if you wish to gain a deeper understanding of this way of life.

Wearing a traditional Maasai headpiece made from the mane of a male lion.

While we went to Kenya to see the animals, the Maasai were a part of the trip that will leave a lasting impression on both of us.

Vacationing in Vermont

Sitting on the front steps of Fred's cabin...our summer retreat

Vermont truly is a great place to vacation!  Living and working there is one thing.  But vacationing, with no yard work, household responsibilities or work demands to deal with is something completely different.  And when your vacation home is an airy Adirondack cabin that sits on top of a hillside with spectacular views, it feels like a slice of heaven.

Looking out on the hills of Guilford, VT.

We book ended our month in Vermont with time in Washington D.C. with Kate and Ben, Brittany and Victor.  It was wonderful to see them after our time out of the country.  We were also fortunate to have Kate visit us for a few days at the end of our time in Vermont.  We are all making plans for the four of them to visit us at Christmas time later this year.  We cannot wait to have them all with us in our home in Beirut!

Fred’s cabin was an ideal place to spend our time in Vermont.  Having rented our home for the duration of our two years in Lebanon, we needed a place to say, and Fred’s cabin was a great find.   The 1920’s era cabin sits close to Fred’s home, both of which are perched on the edge of a cliff with spectacular views of the hills of Guilford, VT.  Whether sipping the morning’s first cup of coffee, enjoying a cocktail with friends at happy hour, or listening to the gentle call of wood thrushes as the sun sets, this spot is absolutely spectacular.

We enjoyed having Kate with us for a few days

The cabin itself is adorably cute, with a large living/dining room, a fully equipped kitchen and a comfortable bedroom. Adding to the charm of the place are the silver birch logs which frame the place. Reading or napping…or both… on the corner bed, with its views of the hills and the ever-present breeze, was a regular part of the daily routine at Fred’s.  The only difficulty was deciding which of us would get that popular spot.

The bathroom, situated in an outbuilding, adds to the camp like feel of the place.  While this structure is a ten step walk away from the cabin, it is a fully functioning facility, with a sink and toilet room, and a spacious, well lit shower with plenty of hot water.

Madi and Sharon enjoying late day sun

In spite of our sleeping in every morning, and reading and/or napping every afternoon, we were quite busy during our stay.  We either had friends over or joined friends for dinner most nights.  Kate visited for a few days, as did our friends Madi and Bugs from Martha’s Vineyard.  Donna threw us a party, which allowed us to see many other friends and work colleagues if only for this one night.  Yoga, walking, biking, golf, kayaking and tennis and reading kept our day times full.  We could get used to this life!

Our favorite spot in the cabin.

We have already booked the cabin for next July.

Looking at the back of the cabin from the cliff

Sharon and Donna enjoying each other's company after month's apart

Sunset at Fred's

Reflections on a Year

It has been a year unlike any year in our 60 years on the planet. Our first year living in an urban environment. Our first year living outside of Vermont as well as outside the USA. And of course, our first year working in an international school. It has been a quite a year.

Muslim and Christian, side by side

Living in Beirut has been the easiest part of this whole experience. We have always enjoyed spending time in places like New York City and Boston with the easy access to good restaurants and the vibrancy urban living offers. Beirut certainly offers all of that and more, both positive and negative. The mix of East and West, Muslim and Christian, old and new makes Beirut a very interesting place to live. Just last week I was walking our recycling down to the recycling bins on the Corniche, just as the mosque on the corner began the evening call to prayer. The sun was setting over the Mediterranean, the Corniche was full of families enjoying another beautiful night in Beirut, and the call to prayer mixed with the incessant honking of car horns gave me yet another, “OMG I am in Beirut!” moment. Other than the intense heat and humidity of the fall, the weather has been spectacular. I have skied twice. The dog poop on the sidewalks, the trash in the sea and strewn on the roads and the cutting of power every day may be negatives to this place, but they are just part of what makes Beirut, Beirut. Sharon wonders how well we will settle back into the tranquil life in Brattleboro once we return. Good question.

East and West

Living and working here have given us such a larger window on the world. We work with Muslims and Christians from Lebanon, Jordan, Syria, Spain, France, Canada and the US. We teach kids from Lebanon and others who have lived in places like Dubai, Saudi Arabia, Russia, Kazakhstan, and England. Our cook is Palestinian. Other colleagues have worked and lived in Kuwait, China, Saudi Arabia, India, Turkey and the Dominican Republic, and they tell stories that make these parts of the world part of ours. It is fascinating!

The work has been by far the most challenging part of this experience. The school demands a great deal of its teachers, particularly in the elementary school. The principal is an excellent yet demanding administrator who  asks much of her faculty. The days are very long and while there is considerable prep time, much of it is taken with required meetings and for Sharon, hiking up and down four flights of stairs to another building to stand in line for the one copier available to teachers.   She is the only adult in the room with twenty kids with diverse needs.  There has been nothing like a buddy system to inform her of what needs to be done when, so she has been taken by surprise with requirements many times.  The kids and their parents are from a different culture than what we are used to, naturally, and the adjustment to these differences has not always been easy.  The kids at ACS in general are intelligent, polite and respectful, but they don’t always listen to each other or their teacher. Some, not all parents protect their “habibis“ like there is no tomorrow, and that is somewhat reflective of how the Lebanese live. They pride themselves on living life to the fullest, for they cannot be certain what tomorrow will bring.  As we end the year we have worked together ( I am half jokingly referred to as Sharon’s data entry clerk) to make the work load bearable. Sharon has gotten her feet on the ground as a classroom teacher, and the principal and parents recognize just how good a teacher she is. The day to day reality of life here is not as glamorous as this blog might had led one to believe. But we have survived.

Long days, and many weekends are part of the reality of an ACS elementary classroom teacher

Of course, the travel this place has afforded us has been just fabulous. I have flags hanging in my office from all the countries we visited this year; Lebanon, Jordan, Turkey, Syria and Greece. We already have plans to visit Kenya and Egypt next year. Our long spring break will likely be to the East; maybe Sri Lanka or Thailand. We look forward to visits from our kids as well as our good friend Donna, and they will decide on other travel destinations during their visits. Croatia, the coast of Turkey, Dubai and Israel are all places we hope to get to before we leave. Might we need a third year abroad just to do all the traveling we wish to do?

All in all we are both glad we are having this “adventia before dementia” experience. We miss our friends and family, but visits from Britt and Dave and Deb this year, emails, NPR and gmail chats with the girls and friends have kept us connected. We are looking forward to seeing everyone soon, but know that another year of hard work, and fascinating experiences await us next year.

A typical springtime sunset from our living room balcony

Impressions of Beirut and Lebanon

My brother Dave and his wife Deb spent a week with us after our travels to Greece.  Here are their impressions of Beirut and the country of Lebanon.

Enjoying margaritas after a day touring Lebanon

From Deb –

Beirut is a city of contrasts, new buildings standing next to old broken down ones full of bullet holes from the war of 20 years ago. Scarved women who wear tight fitting clothes and large shinny bangles of jewelry that seem attention grabbing. It is also very cosmopolitan and has a European flavor.

Lines and lanes seem to mean nothing as well. Cars and people just straddle the middle and weave in and out of those in front to advance. Once you get used to this, it’s fine. We found the Lebanese people to be extremely friendly and helpful! Everywhere we went, whether people spoke English or not they tried to help us find what we needed. When we couldn’t find limes at the grocery, but they used them to make Cosmos at the Hard Rock Cafe, we asked the bartender if we could buy one from him. Instead he gave us 3!

The things I most enjoyed were the Roman ruins at Baalbek, the hike in the Quidasha Valley, the walking tour of Beirut and the museum at the American University. As you know, we had several adventures when it came to transportation. Both the bus to and from Byblos along with the cab to Baalbek turned out to be fun and educational to say the least! The hardest part about the bus ride was the open windows and the poor air quality which I am certainly not used to. I found I felt like I needed a shower whenever we returned to your place.

But the bus ride gave a us a chance to really see the cities up and down the coast and the cab ride to Baalbek allowed us to see Lebanon’s high country with I really loved! Outside the city were vistas of snowy mountains and clear air! Beautiful!

Your advice to us about traffic and walking around the city was great! We found that in Lebanon traffic lights and lane lines are merely a suggestion. When you want to cross the street,look for a slight lull in the traffic and step out. If you wait for the walk signal and rely on that you could get run over as David and I nearly found out trying to cross to walk the Cornice!

All in all Beirut is a very diverse and interesting place. One I will never forget!

Deb Melton

Below….the Roman Baths in Downtown Beirut

From Dave –

We arrived in Beirut on 5/3 and stayed until 5/10.  The weather throughout our visit was superb, although the smog did irritate the eyes for a few days. The first thing that struck me was the old, disrepaired buildings along the waterfront as our plane made the approach to the airport.  I would have expected newer McMansion homes on the waterfront. In the USA newer development is usually found in a particular section of town, here new will sit right next to old and disrepaired, or even war damaged property.  While there are a lot of old, damaged cars on  the streets of Beirut there are also a lot of Mercedes Benzs and BMW, in fact most taxis were either MBs or BMWs.

Lebanese drivers are the best in the world, they turn every two lane road into a three lane road, a four lane divided highway into a six lane highway, ( and sometimes not even divided) , vehicles can be going both directions on your side of the divided highway. In the USA we often see accidents on good roads on a clear day- obvioiusly caused by inattention. I did not see one accident in Lebanon-you have to pay attention driving there if you wish to survive the journey.

We really enjoyed Mike and Sharon’s apartment, with its spacious rooms and view of the Mediterranean.

We took side trips to Byblos, Baalbeck and the Quidasha Valley. Each was spectacular.  We have viewed ancient ruins in Greece at Athens, Delos and Delphi, also in Turkey.  The Roman ruins at Baalbeck were a highlight of our trip.

You cannot find limes in the stores but the bartender at the Hard Rock Cafe was gracious enough to give us three for Cosmopolitans.

We would not have put Lebanon on our itinerary if Mike and Sharon had not been there, we are so glad we did visit there-it is a fascinating country.

Dave Friel

Pushing the Stone....keep pushing Dave!

Nafplio and The Peloponnese

Sunset over the roofs and harbor of Nafplio. Taken from our hotel room

After enjoying the sights and sounds of Athens, Dave, Deb, Sharon and I rented a car and headed to the coastal town of Nafplio on The Peloponnese peninsula.  Nafplio is a touristy, yet charming town of narrow shop-lined streets on the Argolic Gulf.   The town is dominated by several fortresses, the most impressive being the Palamadi Fortress, built by the Venetians in the 18th century.

The Palamadi Fortress

This is a massive fortress that offers spectacular views of Nafplio, its harbor and the surrounding countryside.  We enjoyed a morning  hike up the 800+ stairs from the town to the first level of the fortress, and after touring the extensive ramparts,  took a taxi to harborside drinks overlooking the Venetian castle in the harbor.

We were in Nafplio during the Easter weekend.  After a great meal we stumbled upon an Eastern Orthodox church service Easter Eve at 11 p.m.  We listened to an hour of two priests chanting back and forth, then marched out of the church with the parishioners and tourists.  This procession was followed by  the longer 3 hour Easter church service. (We did not stay for that.)

The Orthodox Church where we enjoyed an Easter Eve service.

The island fortress of Bourtzi, built by the Venetians, located in the Nafplio harbor.

On our way to Nafplio we were enthralled with our visit to Mycenae, the ancient home of Agamemnon, made famous by Homer in The Iliad and The Odyssey.  While not much of the town remains, the ruins as well as the museum were fascinating as they put us back to  1500 B.C.

Red eggs are a Greek tradition at Easter. They represent the blood of Christ.

This was a wonderful time of year to visit the Greek countryside.  Flowers were in bloom everywhere.  Tourist season had not yet begun in earnest so crowds were small.  While it was not yet beach weather and was even a bit cool at times   we enjoyed pleasant breezes and warming sunshine most days.

Leg two of this trip was just as good as leg on.  Next up, the island of Santorini.

Taking a break on the walk up to The Palamadi Fortress.

Flowers adorned many of the walls and grounds of the fortress.

At the famous Lions Gate entrance to ancient Mycanae.

Touring the ruins of Mycanae in the gorgeous Peloponnese countryside.

Ancient Mycanean writing. Just amazing to look at!

ATHENS

Athens, Greece.  A bucket list locale that did not disappoint.  A photo essay seems in order given the hundreds of pictures we took while there.

These first two photos were taken from the rooftop restaurant where we stayed while in Athens.  This was our view at breakfast, and during cocktail hour.  Dave found this hotel for us.  Well done, big bro!

The hole in one side of the Parthenon was created when ammunition that was being stored there in the 19th century exploded.

The Parthenon and the Erechtion.  The Erecthion was built on the most sacred site on the Acropolis, where Poseidon struck the ground with his trident, and where Athena produced the olive tree.  Or so the story goes.

The Caryatids, larger-than-life maiden columns, on the southern portico of the Erechtion, are plaster casts.  Five of the originals are in the new Acropolis Museum, while the sixth is in the British Museum, thanks to the philphering of Lord Elgin.

The whiter marble is restored.  Many of the sculptures on the pediment are in the Acropolis Museum, while others are in London.  GIVE BACK THE MARBLES!

The columns of The Parthenon are slightly narrower at the top than the bottom.  And as you all know from your high school study of ancient Greece, the columns are Ionic in style.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in AD 161 by a wealthy Roman.  This theatre was excavated in the mid 19th century and restored in the 20th.  It is the smaller of the two theatres built into the side of the Acropolis.  (Not the theatre of Dionysos as I say in the video.)

Below the Acropolis is the ancient Agora, the center of ancient Athens and where the likes of Socrates, Aristotle and Plato held court.

“Saida! Saida! Saida!”

The Crusader Sea Castle in Saida

The ancient Phoenician town of Saida, aka Sidon, is located a short 30 minute ride down the coast from Beirut.  As with many of our adventures in Lebanon, the trip itself was half the fun.  We took a cab to COLA, the “bus terminal” used to connect with towns south of Beirut.  Terminal is not the correct word for this disorganized transportation hub.

On the causeway to the Sea Castle which sits a few hundred meters off shore.

It is more of a hectic intersection with buses and vans sitting along the curb waiting for riders.  After getting out of the cab that took us to COLA the driver of a van rolled along side and asked if we were going to Saida.  At only 2000LL ($1.33) per person we hopped in.  For the next ten minutes we sat or rolled along the road as the driver or associate on the street yelled, “Saida, Saida, Saida, Saida” in an attempt to find other passengers.  Eventually he had a mostly full load and decided it was time to begin the trip.

We trolled for passengers for a few more minutes and pulled off the highway several times to attempt to pick up others.   In spite of all this we arrived in Saida within 40 minutes of our taking seats in the van.

On the Sea Castle

Our first stop was The Sea Castle, a crusader castle that sits in the city harbor.  This small castle was first built in 1228 and has been destroyed and rebuilt several times.  No signage or guides allowed us to create our own stories of its past as we wandered the interior of the castle.

Sharon, with the castle's causeway and Saida in the background

We found the souks in Saida to be larger than we had expected.  This was the heart of medieval Saida and like all other souks is a labyrinthine of alleyways and shops.   Cobblers, pastry shops, coffee shop, woodworkers and other merchants are all found in the narrow passageways of Saida’s souks.  

We stumbled upon a small area that housed an 8^th century (so the sign said) stone and masonry church set amongst a residential area that was just beautiful in its simplicity.

Some ancient methods are still in use in the Middle East.

We were told to be sure to visit the soap museum, and it did not disappoint.  The exhibits were well presented with clear explanations of the soap making process.  A video showing the modern day process was interesting as well.  After the purchase of a few bars of cinammon and rose scented soaps we headed back to the bus for our ride back to Beirut.

Scenes from the Corniche

 

The Corniche is one of the great spots in Beirut.  Fortunately we live a few blocks away and often walk it on our way to or from work.  Here are a few shots from our many walks along Beirut’s Corniche.

When the skies are clear the view of the Lebanon Mountain Range is stunning.

Street vendors of all types are common on the Corniche.  Always men.  Coffee is popular and various types of children’s toys are also common.

I walk to work along the Corniche on occasion, and this guy is always in the same spot, selling whole fresh fish.

We have yet to try this bread.  It seems to be popular with the Lebanese who eat it is as is.

Two popular activities on the Corniche: enjoying a nargila and kids riding bikes.

A common site, especially in the morning, is a group of older men, sitting around a table, smoking nargila, drinking coffee, maybe snacking and enjoying each other’s company.

Men can be seen swimming in the Mediterranean throughout the year.  During the warm months it is not uncommon for dozens to be swimming, particularly in the morning.

The AUB “Beach Club” during the off season is home to men playing paddle ball and soaking up the winter sun.

Looking west along the rocky shore of the Corniche.  The AUB “beach”….a cement slab….is located at the tower.

The Corniche is a popular place for people to exercise.  Runners, groups of men and women walking vigorously, roller bladers and bike riders are all common sites.

A day’s catch for one of the many fishermen along the Corniche.  This is by far the biggest catch I have ever seen.  More common are a few very tiny perch like fish or long snouted eel like fish.
The beautiful architecture of old Beirut is rapidly disappearing and being replaced by tall, concrete apartment buildings.

Scarved women enjoying a sunny late winter day on the Corniche.

Skiing in Lebanon

 

On the slopes at Faraya

While it was not a major factor in our decision to come to Lebanon, learning that there is skiing in the country was a definite draw for me. Where else can you ski in the morning and go to the beach in the afternoon? Not that I have done that….but it is possible.

I have been skiing twice, both times at the closest ski area, Faraya, which is about 90 minutes away by car. Back in January I went with two other guys from ACS. It was a memorable day, but unfortunately, not in a good way. Except for an hour in the middle of the day, the mountain was blanketed in fog. Visibility was about 5 feet, and with no trees on the mountain to provide some orientation, nausea quickly set in as we tried to make our way down the mountain. Most of the day was spent with a very shaky stomach. During the short stretch when the sun did shine, I took the worst fall of my skiing life, resulting in a badly bruised lower back and torn ligaments in my left thumb. I did not want this day to be my only memory of skiing in Lebanon this year, and was determined to get back there and have a good day on the slopes.

Blue skies, smilin' at me....

This past Saturday I was able to join teachers from the Middle School on a bus trip to Faraya. We did encounter one of those unexplainable “this is Lebanon” moments as we approached the mountain. As we rounded a corner about a kilometer from the mountain, our bus, like every other bus carrying skiers, was stopped by policemen on the side of the road. We were told the large buses could not go any further. Why? We never did get a straight answer to that question. No room for buses in the parking lots? Security?? A money making scheme for local taxi companies??? Who knows. After half an hour sitting on the side of the road we turned the bus around and made our way to the mountain via a back route. No check points, no problem. Welcome to Lebanon.

With Andre and Karim, both from ACS

The day was warm, with clear blue skies. While the conditions were a bit icy in the morning, the snow quickly softened up and we enjoyed a day with spring like conditions. The mountains of Lebanon are treeless, so it is pretty much “above tree line” skiing, with open terrain and mini bowls and knolls everywhere. In spite of being told by locals not to expect much, I was impressed with the size of the area and the general conditions.

One of several peaks that make up the ski area called Faraya

Signage was minimal, and lift lines, like “lines” everywhere in this country are largely disorganized. But that aside, I will be proud to put a “Faraya, Lebanon” sticker on my helmet…..once I get one made.

Phil on the slopes